Woodwork Joints

For setting out joints see the paper 'Basic Setting Out 1' here and follow the articles through. When you have cut down the shoulders of a tenon properly, removed the waste of a halving and chopped out a mortise all these skills are repeated for most of the other types of joints. Remember to cut the shoulder lines with a sharp knife and 'vee' it partially to get a good joint. A tight joint is not needed, just fitted well. If it is too tight the glue will be forced out and any minor imperfection will throw the frame out and into 'winding'.
There are numerous 'rules' for beginners and improvers to learn and at times it seems like there are too many. They are not my rules. The 'rules' however, are the techniques handed down as the most effective way of doing things. They reduce your error and allow you to work more efficiently and above all - safely. Later when you have learnt the techniques and you work effectively you may find 'other' ways. But you will understand and know the penalties when things do not quite go as they should and why!

An important set of rules is the order of work see here. On many occasions if you cut a shoulder for instance before you have worked the groove or rebate you may find it difficult or tricky to use the plane or router, etc. on the reduced length. These rules make it easier and reduces error.

How to actually cut the joints is well covered in the 'Stanley's how to sheets'. These are excellent for getting the basic techniques. If you read, understand and practise these techniques successfully you are 70% a woodworker. You then need to know about cabinet construction and lots of practise and experience to become proficient. I would like to add just one tip ~ when sawing to line or shoulder it should be well defined with a sharp H2 pencil, or gauged or in the case of shoulders, pre-cut with a sharp knife AND then saw as close to the line, on the waste side of the line, as possible. Your aim actually is to try and cut the line in half ! It is a mistake to leave a little on to trim to the line later. This is wasteful and the longer you rely on it you will never cut a straight or accurate line or shoulder. Remember if you are using powered saws, the 'kerf' could be as thick as 4 to 5 mm's thick.